FOUR STARS out of five

Reviewed by the Four Quarter Food Critics

It was mid-afternoon on a Saturday this winter, when the Four Quarter Food Critics entered the newly opened Barba Yiannis, a pan-Mediterranean restaurant at the Forks. The quartet of roving gourmets had almost stumbled over the outside display case with its most tantalizing collection of desserts. After gazing greedily for a moment, the gang took their seats. The restaurant's two windowed walls created an open and cheerful ambiance, with the added pleasure of being able to watch the outdoor activities and passersby on the riverside plaza at the historic site.

As usual, after prolonged debate about appetizers, the now hungry group decided on the Humus & Bissara and Grilled Portabella Provincale.

The former featured a duo of mid-Eastern bean spreads - Israeli humus and Egyptian bissara - accompanied by hot peppers, pickled eggplant, olives, and kefalortiri cheese. Served with warm wedges of pita bread, this amazing meld of flavors and textures was loved by all. Don't pass it up.

The Portabella Provencale was definitely different: a mixture of fresh spinach, tomatoes, olives, pancetta, and pine nuts spread out over a single grilled Portabella mushroom. Garnished with chevre cheese and grilled artichokes, it drew mixed reviews. The Meat-eater quite liked the collection of flavours, but Miss Perfect felt it tasted too much of tomato. The presence of pancetta—a mild, spicy-sweet Italian style bacon—ensured that not even a forkful crossed the Vegetarian's lips. Verdict: well worth a try if you're a mushroom lover.

From the overwhelming variety of entrees, Miss Perfect, oddly, settled on a Caesar salad with grated asiago. Disappointingly, it was, in her view, lacking in garlic—a judgement confirmed by the others.

Mr. Picky went straight for the Bangkok Stirfry, a mixture of strips of sautéed chicken and Chinese vegetables in a special Bangkok sauce. You can get this dish rated anywhere from 1 (not hot) to 10 (screamin’ hot). Feeling adventurous, Mr. Picky opted for some heat. Six on the scale proved just right—a pleasing "ouch."

If you are a vegan, Barba Yiannis offers many choices. The seafood-loving "Vegetarian," however, settled on the Med Wrap with fried shrimp. The wrap included lettuce, couscous, Israeli salad, olives, feta, and bissara. Even after Mr. Picky and Miss Perfect had sampled it too, seconding the Vegetarian's delight, there was still enough left over to take home for another meal.

The Meat-eater, thinking it had been awhile since partaking of lamb, chose the Greek Arnaki Bisto. Unfortunately, you really have to enjoy lamb to appreciate this dish, and the Meat-eater had forgotten that lamb is not a personal favorite. The slow-roasted, pulled lamb with kefalortiri cheese, sweet peppers, and skordalia (a garlic sauce) served in a paninii with a side of jus (a clear dipping juice)also looked more like a banquet sandwich than a dish befitting such a classy restaurant.

Fond memories of the dessert display still fresh in their minds, the Quartet chose to communally feast on the Ultimate Chocolate Torte. This is a chocolate mousse sandwiched between seven layers of moist chocolate cake and covered in chocolate ganache. It comes with a side serving of whip cream and sits on a bed of mango sauce and. . .more chocolate. There was a collective animal-like groan of approval when the forks left the quartet's mouths. The dessert would be reason enough to visit Barba Yiannis and enjoy its great atmosphere in your favourite company.

Entrees from about $14.95. Tapas, soupas, salatas and light lunches from about $3.95. Also a great selection of wines by the glass and a separate full service bar.